Drum sander situation. I started with 80 grit sand paper to remove the majority of the varnish. I then used 100 grit sand paper to go over everything.
However, those dark areas (scratches and lower areas) are still varnished and can hardly remove using 100 grit paper.
I don’t want to use 80 cuz it might damage the raw boards.
What should I do?
Tia
Question regarding floor sanding
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Gill
We had a sanding business for 15 years.
You need to go over it with a 40 or 60 grit paper to get it back to raw timber. Once all the old polish is off you’ll need to do a sand with an 80, don’t bother with 100 grit as it’s too fine.
You’ll then need to hire an edger sander and sand all the edges of the room, once again a 40/60 and then an 80. Make sure you finish with the same grit on the edges as the rest of the floor or you’ll notice the difference when it’s coated.
Coat with a water based poly as that will keep the same colour as the timber is raw, if you use a solvent based product it will darken and continue to darken over time.
Get the poly from a flooring supply shop, not Bunnings.
You’ll need to do 3 coats of poly giving them a light sand between coats as the poly lifts the fibres in the timber. If you don’t sand between you’ll end up with a rough finish.
Make sure when you coat you work the same way as the boards run, work to a join in the boards as there’s less chance of getting overlap marks if you do that. Overlap marks happen when one run of poly dries too much before you start the next row.
Water based needs 6-8 hrs drying time between coats. It cures in 14 days, you can put furniture back in the room after 48hrs but lift and place the furniture, don’t drag. Don’t put rugs down for at least 14 days.
You need to go over it with a 40 or 60 grit paper to get it back to raw timber. Once all the old polish is off you’ll need to do a sand with an 80, don’t bother with 100 grit as it’s too fine.
You’ll then need to hire an edger sander and sand all the edges of the room, once again a 40/60 and then an 80. Make sure you finish with the same grit on the edges as the rest of the floor or you’ll notice the difference when it’s coated.
Coat with a water based poly as that will keep the same colour as the timber is raw, if you use a solvent based product it will darken and continue to darken over time.
Get the poly from a flooring supply shop, not Bunnings.
You’ll need to do 3 coats of poly giving them a light sand between coats as the poly lifts the fibres in the timber. If you don’t sand between you’ll end up with a rough finish.
Make sure when you coat you work the same way as the boards run, work to a join in the boards as there’s less chance of getting overlap marks if you do that. Overlap marks happen when one run of poly dries too much before you start the next row.
Water based needs 6-8 hrs drying time between coats. It cures in 14 days, you can put furniture back in the room after 48hrs but lift and place the furniture, don’t drag. Don’t put rugs down for at least 14 days.
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Jelena
It needs 40 grit initially so I would go back over it qith 40-60 until all the stain is taken off and then go back up to 80 etc.
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Jeffrey
Usually you start with 40-60 grit then use higher grit that will take out the scratches etc from the 60 grit.
Use stripper as Amanda said if you don’t have access to the lower grit.
Use stripper as Amanda said if you don’t have access to the lower grit.
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Tina
Might have to over these areas with 60grit.
Then all again with 80, 120-150 and then at least 240. Not to mention detail sanding the corners and hard to get-to parts.
See why getting a pro in is good now? It's alot of work!!
Then all again with 80, 120-150 and then at least 240. Not to mention detail sanding the corners and hard to get-to parts.
See why getting a pro in is good now? It's alot of work!!
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Amanda
Try a patch with paint stripper and see how easily it comes off with that.
Last bumped by Anonymous on Thu Jan 05, 2023 12:54 am.
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